Introducing 3D printing of TPU in the leather industry: a discontinuous innovation of local manufacturing practices in Italy

Abstract: This study investigates how design processes can drive the transformation of production models in local manufacturing districts by integrating co-design and co-creation in these multi-stakeholder contexts. Particularly, this research, as part of the PNRR EAR – Enacting Artistic Research project, aims at investigating the bridge between the expertise of master artisans and the potential of additive manufacturing. Indeed, by combining 3D printing technology with traditional artisanal practices, the research reinterprets Made in Italy as a dynamic balance between heritage and innovation. It examines the Italian leather tanning industry in the Santa Croce sull’Arno Leather District, which consists of over 1,100 companies generating a turnover of 4.3 billion euros. In this context, the research analyzes the use of 3D printing to produce thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) components for leather embossing, which is traditionally performed with high-frequency (HF) techniques. This approach enhances production flexibility and customization, particularly benefiting small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in artisanal sectors. Indeed, the Italian manufacturing model—positioned between craftsmanship and industry—relies on intermediate technologies that ensure both efficiency and adaptability. The research underscores the design’s role in social change and disruptive innovation. It demonstrates how emerging technologies like 3D printing can provide accessible, cost-effective solutions when design acts as a strategic tool, fostering innovation while respecting cultural, material, and territorial heritage. Through a critical examination of technological transitions, the study concludes that: (a) design serves as a key driver for rethinking production models and strengthening local expertise within a global framework; and (b) shifting from traditional to additive manufacturing in leather embossing is not just a technical upgrade but a fundamental transformation—cultural, systemic, and multidimensional. This shift presents new growth opportunities for the sector while promoting a more sustainable, inclusive, and adaptable approach to design, capable of reconfiguring resources even in peripheral areas.

Keywords: 3D printing, discontinuous innovation, territorial models of innovation, participatory design, leather design

DOI: 10.54941/ahfe1006457

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