AHFE Open AccessHuman Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering
Editors: Gianni Montagna, Cristina Carvalho
Topics: Material and Textile Engineering
Publication Date: 2023
ISBN: 978-1-958651-62-9
DOI: 10.54941/ahfe1003988
Articles
There is no Planet T in Portugal - Designing a bachelor’s degree in Textile Design for Portugal
This exploratory study is part of design research and aims to understand and reflect on Portuguese higher education in textile design and to make recommendations for the different actors involved – academia, industry, and designers. The textile industry is undergoing a process of change in its production processes and business models to minimize the environmental impact caused. New forms of teaching are needed that go beyond the traditional approach and train the ability to apply theoretical knowledge to real-world problems. A non-interventional study was conducted, based on reviewing the literature and focus group, to stimulate reflection and bring new perspectives on the object of study. The study concludes that Portuguese higher education in textile design is limited and should be complemented with a specialized offer in this field in a close relationship between academia and industry to allow shared education, thus contributing to weave a textile economy of the future.
Sonia Seixas, Gianni Montagna, Maria João Felix
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings
Predicting Virtual Garment Fitting Size with Psychographic Characteristics and 3D Body Measurements Using Artificial Neural Network and Visualizing Fitted Bodies Using Generative Adversarial Network
3D virtual garment simulation technology is widely used in apparel industry nowadays with computer-aided manufacturing systems for the earlier stages of apparel design and product development process. The technological advances have brought convenience in garment product fitting procedures with virtual fitting environment, and eventually enhance the supply chain in the aspects of social, economic, and environmental aspects. Many studies have addressed the matters related to non-standardized selection on garment sizing, ease allowance for different selected groups, and use of 3D avatars for virtual fitting in the design and pre-production stages. Nevertheless, the current practice for designers is difficult for them to recognize the customers’ motivation and emotions towards their preferred fit in the virtual environment, leading to a hard time for the designers to determine the appropriate ease allowances for the end users. The present study is to investigate the variations on the ease preferences for the apparel sizes according to the body dimensions and psychological orientation of the subjects by developing a virtual garment fitting prediction model using artificial neural network (ANN). One hundred and twenty adult subjects were recruited to conduct 3D body scans and questionnaire survey for retrieving their body dimensions and psychographic characteristics. Segmentations were performed and each cluster was asked to evaluate the fitting preferences in a co-design interview on virtual garment simulation with a commercial software called Optitex. The results demonstrated that the ANN model is effective in predicting ease preferences from the body measurements and the psychological orientation of the subjects with high correlation coefficients, showing that a non-linear relationship is modelled among pattern parameters, body dimensions and psychographic characteristics. The results were visualized using generative adversarial network (GAN) to generate 3D samples. This new approach is significant to predict the garment sizes and pattern parameters with a highly accurate ANN model. Visualization of the predicted size with the implementation of GAN model is valuable to envision the garment details from 2D to 3D. The project has achieved the conception of mass customization and customer orientation by providing the perfect fit to the end users. Eventually, new size fitting data is generated for improved ease preference charts and augments end-user satisfaction in garment fit.
Nga Yin Dik, Wai Kei Tsang, Ah Pun Chan, Kwan Yu Lo, Wai Ching Chu
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings
Worker 4.0: A Textile Exoskeleton to Support Apparel Industry
STVgoDigital project aims the transition of the textile and apparel industries to the new Industry 4.0 paradigm promoting the digitalization to increase productivity and efficiency of the entire value chain. Specifically the PPS4 - Worker 4.0, aims to develop disruptive solutions based on sensing and active components within a garment to support repetitive movements that may cause injuries and/or pain in apparel workers. Textile Industry employs 1.7 million people in Europe [1]. Seamstress’s activities are among the most prone to develop pain and fatigue symptoms along time, mainly on the neck, shoulders, and wrists, facing higher musculoskeletal risks caused by precision handwork and static, low-level work postures [2-3]. In Europe, 50% of workers’ absences to work are due to work-related musculoskeletal disorders (WRMSDs) that last for longer periods than absences caused by any other health issue. WRMSDs are responsible for 60% of their permanent incapacity [4]. In a study performed by Oo, 93.8% of the analyzed seamstress’ work experienced WRMSDs [5].In this sense, a textile-based exoskeleton with ergonomic concerns and a challenging textile-based implementation was developed to reduce the physical efforts required to perform different sewing operations in industrial processes. Besides, it would correspond to essential biomechanical specifications to adapt to the human body and avoid common trade-offs related to human-device interfaces. The textile-based exoskeleton that will support the transition to Worker 4.0 generation integrates: a) a sensing system for the detection of movements in real-time, to make it possible to identify the ergonomic posture of the worker, as well as the risk associated with the execution of repetitive working tasks; b) an actuation system to increase body strength and support the upper limb segments correctly, reducing physical efforts and fatigue, eliminating unnecessary movements, and contributing to develop a better ergonomic assessment of the working postures and layout; c) learning and actuation algorithms, with some degree of variability, focused on several movement natures, such as the abduction and elevation of the upper limbs, and finally d) a global integration of the solutions in a wearable, light and flexible garment capable to ensure comfort and adequate execution of the sewing operations while adequately resisting active sensing and actuation systems.Using prototypes, the developed textile-based exoskeleton will be tested in a laboratory and real environment to study and evaluate digital interfaces; measure muscle load and the impact of using the exoskeleton; and evaluate and classify the usability and comfort. A testing protocol was submitted to an ethics committee. AcknowledgmentThis work was developed in the framework of STVgoDIGITAL project (no 46086), which was co-financed by Portugal 2020, under the Operational Program for Competitiveness and Internationalization (COMPETE 2020) through the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF).
João Nuno Oliveira, Luani Costa, Ana Ramôa, Ricardo Silva, Aureliano Fertuzinhos, Bruno Vale, Inês Estudante, João Pinheiro, André Pilastri, Paula Dias, Arthur Matta, Rosane Sampaio, Dário Machado, Paulo Cortez, Marta Costa, Ana Roças, Pedro Madureira, Juliana Moreira, João Pereira, Carla Pereira, Fernando Pereira
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings
Effectiveness of ergonomics management on risk reduction of work-related musculoskeletal disorders among textile export industrial workers
This quasi-experimental study aimed to measure the effectiveness of ergonomics management on risk reduction of work-related musculoskeletal disorders (WMSDs). The study was conducted among industrial workers in one small textile-export enterprise. The 13 workers who met the inclusion criteria were found by screening with a risk matrix of WMSDs and had a risk outcome of WMSDs which was at least at the moderate level (level 3 from five levels). The participants were subjected to an ergonomics program according to the risk levels of WMSDs and the effectiveness was measured by individual comparison between before and after the ergonomics program intervention, which consisted of 1) ergonomics training for improving work posture by using guidance with brochures for self-practice; and 2) using equipment designed for improving workstations, i.e., a chair and footstool designed for the sewing section, and foot support designed for the hand weaving section and quality control section. After ergonomics management implementation, the discomfort scores of workers significantly decreased and the scores of WMSDs risk significantly decreased (p-value <0.001). Therefore, these ergonomics management measures, which could be used as a guideline to reduce WMSDs risk among textile workers, suggest that the organization follows up with long-term screening and surveillance of musculoskeletal diseases to enable industrial workers to work efficiently.
Sunisa Chaiklieng
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings
A pilot study of posture change when wearing high-heeled shoes and pantyhose
Women desire to be taller and to make their legs look longer, so they often wear high-heeled shoes and pantyhose. Our ultimate goal is to develop a pantyhose that reduces muscle fatigue when wearing high-heeled shoes. We applied the panty part of the support half pants that we developed in 2016 to the development of this sample and designed two types of pantyhose based on the appropriate pressure value that changes for each body part. (Mitsuno et al., 2018, 2022). When myoelectric potentials were measured at 8 points in the lower extremities at this time, there was a significant positive correlation between muscle activity in bare feet and muscle activity when wearing high heels and pantyhose B/when wearing low heels and pantyhose A. From this, even if we wear high-heeled shoes, we can reproduce muscle activity close to that of bare feet by wearing pantyhose that matches the shoes. We thought that this change was related to the change in posture when wearing shoes and pantyhose and investigated the change in posture and the use of muscles. Two-dimensional postural images of the right half of the participant's body were taken. To define the orientation of the participant's head and trunk, a 50 cm square was drawn on the floor and a vertical line was added through the midpoint of top side. The participant was instructed to stand across this line so that the front-back median plane of the participant was projected onto the floor, and to look forward. In addition, a guide rod was worn on the top of the participant's head along the anteroposterior median plane, and the line passing through the vertical midpoint of the square at the foot and the guide rod on the top of the head was aligned with the position which they were so as to always overlap or be in equilibrium. The standing position was corrected using two mirrors so that the head and body would not twist. Reflectors (10 mm diameter hemisphere made own) are placed at 10 points: the vertex of the head, acromion, lateral malleolus, the midpoint of the waist/groin/knee/calf, pelvic head, anterior superior iliac spine, and posterior superior iliac. The participant's posture was photographed under 12 conditions when wearing two types of stockings: barefoot, running, low-heeled shoes, and high-heeled shoes. We assumed that the angles formed by the body axis I connecting the acromion point and the waist, the body axis II connecting the acromion point and the calf, and the line connecting the iliac crest and the anterior superior iliac spine are angles a and b, respectively. In addition, the horizontal distance between the lateral malleolus and the vertex/acromion was determined. When correlation coefficients between these four observation items were calculated, there was a significant positive correlation between angles a and b, and there was also a significant positive correlation between the horizontal movement distance of the top of the head and the acromion point. There was also a significant negative correlation between the angle a/b and the horizontal movement distance of the vertex. From that, the smaller the angles a and b, then the more the pelvis rotates forward, and the more the head moves forward. When wearing pantyhose, angles a and b become smaller, that is, the pelvis rotates forward and the posture of the lower leg changes, but the balance is achieved by changing the position of the head and shoulders. When the participant wore high heels and become taller, her shoulder moved back to balance the forwardly moving head. In the future, it is necessary to increase the number of subjects and classify them according to their standing posture while barefoot and investigate these relationships.
Tamaki Mitsuno, Sayuki Kondo
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings
Human comfort factors towards 3D digital fashion design
Fashion can not only be designed and made by traditional manual methods, but also be realized and produced by digital modelling and 3D printing. At present, although it has not been applied to a wide range in the garment manufacturing, it has put forward new possibilities for traditional clothing manufacturing. It is necessary to study these novel methods on clothing design and production. In this paper, through the digital design to 3D printing for fashion production involved in materials, processes, techniques and other aspects of the study and analysis. From the perspective of human comfort to analysis 3D digital design for fashion production that is more suitable for human wear and higher comfort.
Wen Wang
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings
Experimental Data Management for the Panel Joints of the Naval Emergency Shuttle
In marine transport, the risks leading to disasters are associated to the sea and its hazards; in particular, being related both to the state of the ship, competency of the crew members and to the transport of hazardous chemical products or nuclear wastes. Seen from another point of view, spilled oil represents an extremely precious raw material resource, which, through efficient processing, can be reintroduced into the economic value chain. For this purpose, oil fractions can be collected by various means and transported from the spill site to the areas specially designed for the reprocessing treatments application. The naval emergency shuttle (NES) is a floating, collapsible and towable unit fabricated from textile-reinforced composite material that is used for vertical temporary storage and horizontal transport of water – petroleum hydrocarbon (crude oil) compound recovered after various disasters occurred in the brackish sea habitat. The new developed NES innovative solution involves advanced materials based on composite structures with textile matrix covered with hypalon for construction of the main shuttle module architecture and with PVC for the two floating elements achievement. Advanced techniques (for joining the panels) and certified methods (for threads and composite materials experimentation) have been used in order to evaluate the mechanical, chemical, structural characteristics for: threads (100%PA6.6 – 600dtex x 3 and 300dtex x 3; 100%PES 250 x 3 dtex), the composite materials (matrix covered with neoprene, PVC and hypalon) and the types of joints that will be used in its construction. The composite materials were joined using different techniques and seams (301-LSa-1, 301-SSd2-4, 301-SSa-1, etc.) and were tested to assess the maximum strength and elongation at maximum force and tear strength (wing shaped composite material specimen). The management of the obtained data collection consisting of: resistance to breaking, loop and knot - for 3 types of thread used to join the panels; strength, elongation at break and tear force for 3 type-dimensions of specimens (trouser, wing and tongue shaped composite material specimens. During the experimental trials the performed statistical analyses evidenced that the statistical populations are homogeneous (coefficient of variability is max. 13%, for the joint composite material), so the parametric tests can be applied, the identified higher values (compared with averages) of the outliers do not have a negative impact and will not influence the behavior of the NES in real conditions (open sea with possible 4 – 6 Beaufort degree). The conclusions obtained as a result of the statistical analysis enabled the establishment of value ranges for the technical-operational characteristics of the NES, respectively: storage capacity: 5 m3 -500 m3; maximum navigation speed: 3 knots; length: 17.7 – 25m, width: 4.1 – 5 m; breaking strength: min. 500 daN; tearing force: min. 800 N.
Alexandra Gabriela Ene, Mihaela Jomir, Constantin Jomir, Carmen Mihai, Sorin Mihai Radu
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings
Biodyes: a new approach in textile dyeing and printing technological processes.
The textile industry is responsible for the production of more than 2 billion tons of effluents/waste, most of which are discarded into the ecosystem, namely and mostly into water ecosystems, essentially after the dyeing and printing processes. In fact, dyeing is one of the most polluting processes in the textile industry, representing a high source of pollution. According to the World Bank, the textile dyeing industries are responsible for more than 20% of the pollution of all water used at the industrial level.One of the serious problems related to the group of synthetic dyes is the level of chemical compounds used for their production, which has a high level of toxicity. In this context, the group of azo dyes stands out, for example, which predominate in most textile processing applications and have carcinogenic and mutagenic potential. These mentioned problems do not only have an impact in terms of the environment, but also in terms of human health since they can cause irritation to people's skin, eyes, and respiratory tract. Additionally, various health problems such as neurotoxicity, carcinogenicity, reproductive toxicity, and developmental toxicity can arise because of exposure to wastewater pollution.One of the emerging research domains is related to the exploration of obtaining natural dyes from microorganisms, known as Bio colorants. However, the approaches used also limit the yield and performance of the obtained formulations, since the dyeing process occurs directly, through the exposure of the microorganism to the substrate. Additionally, to date, there is no solution applicable to continuous dyeing.This research work has as its main objectives the research and development to obtain dyes for application in textile finishing processes, namely dyeing and printing, resorting to bacterial metabolic processes for the bioproduction of these same dyes. Complementarily, with this project, it is expected to obtain dyeing and printing processes with a reduction in contaminated effluents, because of the high biodegradability of the biodyes to be developed, thus contributing to the reduction of decontamination processes of industrial effluents.This project, therefore, aims to achieve the following research and development milestones:i. New biotechnological approach for obtaining the biodye;ii. High performance and functionalization of the biodye on textile substrates.iii. Reproducibility and uniformity of the process on various types of substrates.A differentiating approach will be investigated, through the metabolic study of the culture conditions of microorganisms, without resorting to genetic modification, and without the use of toxic chemical compounds, allowing, in this way, to generate a unique concept in the sector. As will be duly demonstrated given that, to date, Biodye solutions obtained from microorganisms for continuous dyeing are unknown.At the level of the proposed concept, it is intended to develop formulations of biodye in powder and/or liquid, with performances equivalent to synthetic dyes, to meet the facilities and operational needs of industrial textile dyeing and printing processes, directly responding to industry and market requirements. Effectively, this concept is unique and distinct in the sector, since the discontinuous dyeing solutions of biodyes (from microorganisms) available, occur by direct transfer of the color of the microorganism to the substrate, which entails high constraints in the productive processes in the industries of the sector, which do not have the capacity to adapt their infrastructures. The provision of a powder/and/or liquid formulation makes it possible to respond to this problem and needs.Within the scope of this research process, difficulties may be encountered in obtaining a sufficiently high production yield of biodyes using the different substrates to be tested. Although this is not expected for the production of the red biodye (using the E.coli microbiological strain), it may eventually occur in the production of the yellow and/or blue biodyes. In this case, the consortium team will investigate metabolic pathways of different bacterial and fungal strains to analyze alternatives for obtaining biodye with chromophores of different tones that are an added value for the needs of the sector, through the study and production based on Blakeslea trispora, or in fungi of the genus Penicillium. These strategies will enable the investigation of Biocolorant solutions with yields compatible with industrial needs.This research project also intends to demonstrate and validate the application of the biocolorant to textile ennoblement processes, in the specific case, industrial textile dyeing, and printing processes (batch and continuous) applied to a series of prototypes/pieces of clothing, with different compositions of textile fibers, for which it is intended to demonstrate high levels of intensity, saturation, and colorimetric solidity.
Cristina Carvalho, Carla Costa Pereira, Gianni Montagna, Carlos Manuel Figueiredo
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings
Characterization Studies of A Commercial Blue Clay For Cosmetic Textiles With Antibacterial Activity
Since the beginning of the present century, tests have shown that some types of clay can present antibacterial activity. In addition, the clay considered for pharmaceutical and cosmetic products have been found to be non-toxic and non-irritating materials, therefore, the use of these types of clay for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes has increased in recent years. The above being said, different types of clay have been used over time due to their antibacterial properties, but the analytical methods for their characterization are just beginning to develop. This article is part of a study having as main objective the development of multifunctional antimicrobial textile materials to prevent fungal and bacterial proliferation, thus creating an antimicrobial shield for the human body, especially for blemish-prone skin. In this paperwork, a commercial blue clay was characterized through modern techniques. One of these techniques is X-ray Diffraction (XRD). Coupling SEM with an Energy Dispersive X-Ray detector (EDX), complete information of the morphology and elemental composition of the clay powder can be obtained. Additionally, a microbiological characterization was also performed in order to assess the anti fungal properties. Thus, the obtained results provided an overview of the main features of the selected blue clay. Further studies will be directed to the development of different types of clay-based dispersion and also for the characterization of different types of textile materials, in order to choose a "clay-textile" pair with improved antimicrobial activity.
Alexandra Gabriela Ene, Lucia Secareanu, Ovidiu Iordache, Mirela Blaga, Cristina Lite
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings
Artistic Characteristics and Multi-value of Huayao Cross-stitch from the Perspective of Cultural Ecology
Huayao cross-stitch is a traditional handicraft with distinctive regional characteristics in China. Aesthetically appealing with rich cultural implications, Huayao cross-stitch has been listed in the first national list of intangible cultural heritage of China since 2006. With the rapid development of cultural consumption globally, the innovative design and industrial transformation potential have made traditional handicrafts highly-valued resources, and the analysis of cultural representation and multi-value of traditional handicrafts is the basis of cultural reuse. From the perspective of cultural ecology, the current study aims to summarize the spatial organization mode of Huayao cross-stitch patterns and conduct a deep analysis of the concepts and beliefs represented in Huayao cross-stitch by examining 70 samples of cross-stitch skirt pieces collected from the composition and semantics of patterns. The study then analyzes the basis of multi-value of the Huayao cross-stitch from both aesthetic and cultural dimensions, providing a research basis for the innovation and regeneration of Huayao’s cross-stitch, through which its value can be seen in contemporary times as well as in the future.
Junchun Chen, Jian Peng
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings
Clothing and housing: Using materials with adaptable features can improve comfort and safety in emergency situations.
In this paper, we intend to present adaptable solutions to improve the safety and comfort of users during or after natural catastrophes (earthquakes, eruptions, floods, hurricanes, droughts) or man-made disasters (conflicts and war). We will explore several suggestions, which I will list below: new applications of signage and innovative materials, which allow a more efficient communication in an emergency situation; garments that become shelters, to minimize the negative impact caused by the destruction and loss of the victims' houses; thermochromic materials, reflectors and color used as warning signs, model partitions, lightweight structures, etc. Those are some examples of the features that enable temporary installations to be created in order to relieve human suffering. Conclusions: In this study, we present some versatile, adaptable, and ecological structures, which reflect the environmental and social changes in our western society. We have put together a series of solutions to create temporary shelter. Projects which are a response to the needs of today's world: contemporary nomadism and struggles in renting or buying a house, due to the rising cost of essential goods and the cost of living. The recent past has been marked by a series of unpredictable events: a pandemic, man-made disasters (Russian-Ukrainian War) and natural catastrophes (a heat wave that hit Europe and increased the risk of fire, heavy and persistent rain that caused floods, falling trees and the recent earthquake in Turkey and Syria). Different occurrences that have left several people homeless. When working in extreme conditions and with limited resources, the provision of a shelter can reduce vulnerability in social and economic terms, physical integrity and well-being. It has been found that the development of this type of product has advantages in terms of comfort, mobility, and safety, as it allows for a rapid adaptation and recovery.
Marlene Couceiro, Cristina Carvalho
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings
Inclusive Wardrobe - Touching and wearing different types of fabrics among visually impaired people.
Considering the sensory experience of the user as a clothing buyer and taking into account that the sense of touch is extremely important in the recognition of products by people with vision problems, this investigation aims to find out if touch is essentially a decisive buying factor. In this sense, and considering the practical work carried out among visually impaired people on the touch of the fabrics most used in everyday clothing, along with reviewing the existing literature on apparel user and consumer behaviour, this work may benefit the planning of a more inclusive wardrobe.
Carla Costa Pereira, Sharma Deepshikha, Cristina Carvalho
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings
Structural Analysis Of The Signaling Buoy Used In Relaying Areas Of Live Bivalve Mollusks
The diseases caused by the Norwalk virus (norovirus, Caliciviridae family), which produces gastroenteritis, and HAV (hepatitis A virus), and consequently generates infectious hepatitis, are the most common infections associated with the consumption of contaminated bivalve mollusks, raw or under-cooked. Moreover, the mutual commercial agreement between the EU and the USA regarding the export of live bivalve mollusks requires the adoption of a control program for the microbiological classification and monitoring of the production of this type of seafood, as well as the clear demarcation and signalling of the relaying areas. In this sense, in order to obtain the natural purification of live bivalve mollusks, the relaying areas, as freshwater, sea, estuaries or lagoons, must be demarcated and signaled with the help of buoys. The mathematical modeling of the geometric domain was performed with specialized software based on dimensional constraints specific to an algebraic surface of 2nd order – frusta of cones welded at large end, with different volumes for each frustum. The dimensions for the emerged/submerged frustum were: slant height: 630mm/800mm, radius of the larger circular front: 600mm/600mm and radius of the smaller circular front: 200mm/256mm. The Generative Structural Analysis module enabled the simulation of the behavior of the buoy both as a single entity and as a set of broken (individual) entities. The loads were carried out in the extreme conditions of the open sea, corresponding at: i) agitation state of 4 - 8 degrees Beaufort (wind speed 11 - 15 kt, respectively 20 - 88 km/h) and wave height of max. 1.5 m; ii) wind speed of 34 - 40 kt (62 - 74 km/h) and wave height of 6-7.5 m. Two types of constraints were considered both at the base and in the frusta joint area. Analysis of displacement fields and equivalent stresses (Von Mises) evidenced that the buoy is a rigid structure (with reduced maximum displacements, of 1.2e+003 mm, for 8bf), with an admissible resistance of emerged/submerged frustum 8.11e+ 009N_m2 /1.75e+009 N_m2 that enables the retrieve of the efforts due to the environment, as the possible cracks that might appear at the contact of the composite structure with the fluid in turbulent motion exceed the value of 7.83e+009N_m2 for the stress at 8bf. In addition, were considered for the emerged/submerged frustum: slant height: 630mm/800mm, radius of the larger circular front: 600mm/600mm and radius of the smaller circular front: 200mm/256mm. In this situation, a CAD/CAE environment enabled the simulation of the behavior of the buoy both as a single entity and as a set of broken (individual) entities was performed. Moreover, for the matrix made of 45%/55% PA6.6/PES fabric –corresponding to the emerged frustum and respectively 100% PA6.6 for the submerged frustum were used calculation algorithms specific to fabric design. The resulting variation intervals of the longitudinal, respectively transverse system, mass, width and connection were assessed. The buoy obtained based on mechanic-textile processing technologies will be subjected to experiments at the shore and in real conditions of use, in order to determine the corresponding technical resource.
Alexandra Gabriela Ene, Carmen Mihai, Mihaela Jomir, Constantin Jomir
Open Access
Article
Conference Proceedings