Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering

AHFE International

Accelerating Open Access Science in Human Factors Engineering and Human-Centered Computing

Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering

book-cover

Editors: Gianni Montagna, Cristina Carvalho

Topics: Material and Textile Engineering

Publication Date: 2022

ISBN: 978-1-958651-08-7

DOI: 10.54941/ahfe1001530

Articles

The role of teaching advanced technological knowledge to enhance experimental creativity in knit design.

Digitalization is one of the main grounds for discussion in the textile manufacturing industry. As in other creative fields, digitalization in textile design has brought craftsmanship together with work using digital tools and mechanical processes to creatively embed advanced knowledge in structural design and this dualism is even stronger in the field of knitwear design. For years, knitting technologies have been considered far from creativity and entirely delegated to the expertise of technicians, and design education has often focused on fostering artistic expression by teaching highly creative manual/mechanical processes. In the ongoing shift towards digitalization and the challenges of Industry 4.0, research and education in knitting design must redefine the programming of industrial machines as a tool for designers to push their experimental creativity together with their technical knowledge. This article reports an investigation made by the authors in the two different contexts of the School of Design of Politecnico di Milano and of the Swedish School of Textile in Borås. Using the method of constructive alignment (Biggs, J. B. & Tang, C. S., 2011), the investigation set up a comparison of two practice-based methods for training designers in programming industrial knitting machines. The authors mapped the teaching, learning activities and expected learning outcomes specific for each course and analysed quintessential aspects that occur in the learning process in the transition from manual to digital tools. The research had the aim of understanding what kind of knowledge should be transferred, in which way and with which purpose, to make programming an integral and effective part of the learning process for knit designers. The data collected have been used to highlight similarities and differences between the two programmes, identify impactful items and open future research that could foster improvements with shared solutions.

Martina Motta, Delia Dumitrescu

Conference Proceedings

The Wardrobe for Patients with Autism Spectrum Disorder

Autism is a developmental brain disorder that affects communication skills and social integration, often exposing stereotyped and repetitive patterns. People with this syndrome have an overreaction or underreaction to different sensory stimuli, presenting difficulty in sharing emotions and interpreting body languages.There are studies confirming different reactions between genders, and it is pertinent to analyse how both adapt to the act of dressing and to the reception of different pieces of clothing.Neglecting the practice of Fashion representation and highlighting the functionality of the act of covering and protecting the body, this study aims to discover the wardrobe of a patient with ASD (Autistic Spectrum Disorder) and to know how Design can be more inclusive to improve their wellbeing. Being just the beginning of the investigation, now still based on literature review and pre-test results, the conclusion of the study is not fully defined. Elements of Fashion Design have not all been tested, and the small sample results reflect the needs of caregivers more than the needs of patients

Carla Costa Pereira, Joana Pinto, Gianni Montagna, Cristina Carvalho

Conference Proceedings

A comprehensive body sizing system for international fashion consumers and apparel manufacturing

Human body sizing standards are the foundation for apparel mass production. An effective sizing system is vital because it provides a consistent and accurate sizing reference for both manufacturers and consumers. This study aims to develop a comprehensive sizing system in a 3-step process by taking reference to all major national body sizing standards. Firstly, the primary and secondary dimensions are determined. Secondly, coverage of the body shapes, represented by drop vales for upper body (differences of bust and waist) and lower body (differences of waist and hip), are calculated. Thirdly, the size ranges, namely, the upper and lower limits of primary and secondary dimensions, are obtained from each size standard. In this paper, the sizing standards of US, Europe, China, Japan and some other countries were investigated. Based on the analysis results, we consolidated all sizing information into five size charts, from which a comprehensive sizing system covering two size charts for upper body and lower body were lastly constructed. The proposed sizing system covers very board body size ranges as well as a large variety of body shapes, which provide a basis for garment production and body shape classification.

Xin Zhang, Ningrong Xie, Jin-Tu Fan, Tracy Mok

Conference Proceedings

The textile designer skills to face the emerging challenges of textile industry and the role of academia

This study aims to reflect on the role of different actors - industry, academia, designer, user - in the adoption of more sustainable production and consumption practices of textile products. Problems become more and more complex, due to the convergences of knowledge, and this affects the way textile designers work and consequently how textile design education should adapt. It is essential to prepare textile designers to face these new challenges that demand new ways of working. The methodology was carried out through literature review and data collection, to analyze the fundamental concepts and develop awareness strategies about sustainability and circular economy allowing to understand their importance between the different actors. The article concludes that there are fundamental skills for the textile designer to be able to respond to these challenges and that a transdisciplinary approach can be a way forward in a closer dialogue between industry and academia.

Sonia Seixas, Gianni Montagna, Maria João Felix

Conference Proceedings

Infrared Thermal Mapping of Young Male Body following Different Physical Exercises

This study investigated the thermal mapping of the young male bodies following different physical exercises based on a designed experimental protocol. Thermal mappings of the male subjects when being resting, walking, and running for 48 minutes were recorded at the determined timelines using a digital infrared thermal detection system. The anterior and posterior body of the subject was divided into 54 specific zones. The experimental results indicated the body zones with the higher surface temperatures and the largest variations when performed protocoled exercises. The body sweating mapping was also visualized. The study method and outcomes provide a valuable reference for structure and material design of the functional / intelligent sensing garment system used for sports or physical exercises.

Xinbo Wu, Rong Liu, Mohammad Mohiuddin Choudhury, Hung Kay Daniel Chow, Chongyang Ye, Hoi Hung Ho

Conference Proceedings

CAPABLE: Engineering, textile, and fashion Collaboration, for citizens' Awareness and Privacy Protection

Many private companies and public bodies in authoritarian and democratic states have joined facial recognition technology, used for various purposes. This situation is due to the general absence of a specific regulation that monitors its use. There is no consensus in society regarding the ethics of this technology. Furthermore, there are many doubts concerning the long-term ethical sustainability of facial recognition and its compliance with the law. A problem that emerges from the use of this technology is its obscurity. We do not know who is responsible for the decision automatically made; we do not know how the data is used by those who collect it, how long this data is kept, who can have access to it, to whom it is sent, and how this is used to create a profile. In addition, facial recognition systems are powered by numerous images collected from the Internet and social media without users' permission: it is, therefore, impossible to trace the origin of the data. Consequently, any citizen could be classified, most likely discriminated against, and become the victim of an algorithm. The boundary between security and control is decidedly blurred: many cameras do not respect the privacy of individuals and often harm human rights when they are used to discriminate, accuse, power, and manipulate people. From this discussion on privacy and human rights, it was born first the desire to create awareness, in particular regarding these technologies and the possible issues linked to them. Secondly, it was born the will to create a product that would be the spokesperson for these concerns and allow citizens to protect themselves. On this basis, a collaboration between fashion, engineering, and textile has developed to produce fabric and then garments, which confuse facial recognition systems in real-time. The technological innovation aims to create a system capable of generating adversarial knitted patches that can confuse the systems that capture biometric data. By integrating an adversarial algorithm into their jacquard motifs, the garments prevent the wearers from being identified, preserving their privacy. The adversarial textile is made with computerized knitting machines. Compared to a printed image, knitwear acquires texture, durability, wearability, and practicability. Furthermore, a knitted fabric allows modifying the single yarn material based on the results and performance we want to obtain. These fabrics have been tested on Yolo, the fastest and most advanced algorithm for real-time object recognition. The project was born in New York in 2019; the first experiments with computerized knitting machines were carried out at the Politecnico di Milano in January 2020. The textile was developed in the workshops of the Shenkar College of Tel Aviv. On February 8, 2021, the patent of the industrial process to produce the adversarial knitted textile was filed, with the patronage of the Politecnico di Milano. Today, the research on this fabric and these thematics has carried on within a Ph.D. that combines human-centric design and engineering.

Rachele Didero, Giovanni Maria Conti

Conference Proceedings

Investigating the Factors Affecting the Thermal and Tactile Comfort of Summer Undergarments

Hong Kong is often playfully called the “Frozen City” because the air-conditioning in many buildings operates at frigid temperatures during the summer. However, the large temperature differences between the external and internal environments could cause a large array of illnesses, especially children who are not aware of the temperature changes and are less likely to have self-care ability. Therefore, wearing appropriate undergarments or summer underwear could be one of the solutions. However, there are few studies that have investigated the thermal and tactile comfort of summer underwear. In this study, physical experiments, KES-FB measurements, and a wear trial are done to address the lack of studies. Seven conventional types of materials for undergarments are tested. The results indicate that lighter, thinner, and low stitch density fabrics constructed with uniform filaments increase breathability and enhance moisture wicking. Also, uniform fibres increase the thermal conductivity thus enhancing a cooler feeling. In regards tactile comfort, lighter and thinner materials with a higher percentage of elastane, finer yarn, and uniform and long fibres offer a softer, smoother, and cooler hand feel. In addition, the pure cotton material appears to more regulate body temperature as the resultant undergarment facilitates a higher rate of perspiration despite clinging. These results are a good reference for materials scientists, textile researchers as well as academics to further related research work.

Kapo Lee, Joanne Yip, Kit Lun Yick

Conference Proceedings

Adapting Jane Austen to the screen: fashion and costume in Autumn de Wilde’s movie "Emma"

The visual and behavioral codes prevalent in society at any given moment are part of its social conventions and constitute a framework that rules everyone´s image, dress and the attitudes that society not only tolerates but expects from them. However, it is unquestionable that despite the rigidity and formality imposed on personal appearance and manners, it is still possible to find some room to play with the possibilities afforded to people, albeit conditioned by their social status, so as to manage to express their inner self, mood, and even outlook on life, at any point in time. What is more, it is possible for an individual inserted in such a society to become the center around which everything revolves and trace a path to success, without necessarily trespassing any of the red lines drawn by society's norms. In her novels, Jane Austen chose as protagonists middle to upper class young women that stand out by managing to, in the limited scope of action afforded to them, work society in their favour so as to achieve their perceived notions of fulfillment and personal happiness. Based on one of Austen's novels Emma, and its 2020 movie adaptation directed by Autumn de Wilde, we will assess how Alexandra Byrne’s costumes work in relation to the aesthetics of Emma’s world and surroundings. As well as investigate how they showcase, are impacted and can even be read as symbolic representations of the course of her life, evolution and relationships in this movie, which is considered to be particularly faithful to the novel.Keeping this in mind, we will analyse several scenes that are key both in terms of the plot and the costumes of the main character—Emma. This analysis will consider filmic and design notions of characters, narrative and space, as well as their construction and representation. It will focus on questions of storytelling regarding how the viewer is informed about Emma’s personality and mood, as well as capable of feeling her emotions, in the key events of the plot. As well as try to answer why and how Emma and her costumes remain the main focus in almost every shot of the movie, and how components such as the fictional space, its framing and composition are always in relation and dependent on her and her portrayal.Despite this movie being Autumn de Wilde’s debut, her mastery of notions of visual hierarchies, aesthetics and cinematic techniques that keep Emma highlighted and the focus of the action at all times, in the foreground of the shot, is undeniable. This translates to impeccably shot spaces that are completely in tune with the costumes, providing a sense of ease or contrast to the characters' relation to the space, further highlighting the subjects in the main action.In such an aesthetically developed piece, it is then also unavoidable that Emma’s every interaction and the development of her relationships will have a direct impact on her inner image, and therefore her outer image, affecting her relation and attachments to her costumes.

Carlos Manuel Figueiredo, Ana Rafaela Diogo, Joana André Leite

Conference Proceedings

New skills for new designers: Fashion and Textiles

This work arises as a reflection on what it means to be a designer of the future and their greater need for influence and collaboration with the team throughout the product creation cycle. The renewal of a culture of design and business innovation in the area of fashion and textile design is based on the establishment of bridges with different realities that, increasingly dynamic, change the landscape of different products and their creation processes, blurring the boundaries and limits of each area of intervention and its actors. From the small to the big industry we find new needs and professions that project themselves into the future reaching from the past, as in the case of new craft productions that value the identity, artistic and cultural heritage of each geography, supported by new materials and technologies of Industry 5.0. This new dynamic of integrated work, where everyone contributes to enhance the knowledge of each participant, enabling the renewal of knowledge and the development of innovation and social, cultural, and economic inclusion, needs greater support and connection between academia and the creative and productive reality on the ground. The present research group, sustained by the interpretation of the paths of work innovation in the coming decades, intended to provide a contribution to the industry and the culture of national or international design innovation, through research based on the identification of the knowledge and skills necessary for the future training of fashion designers.The adoption of a qualitative and quantitative methodology should allow the collection of data that can indicate trends of needs of future designers and the need to adapt the academy to these new realities. With this study we intend to establish a network of relationships between the different actors in the process of creation and innovation, as well as promote a greater connection between the different forms of creation and production that allow to satisfy the final consumer and their needs around fashion and textiles.

Gianni Montagna, Maria Delgado, Isabel Duarte De Almeida, Luís Santos

Conference Proceedings

Fashion design and fashion technology courses: Practical skills in patterns making, garment manufacturing techniques, technologies, and applications for fashion industry

In higher education of national and international courses, there appear the designation Fashion Design, Fashion Technology, and the techniques of pattern making and garment manufacturing which are not always associated in the same curricular unit. The practical skills associated with these two techniques are complementary in fashion product development; but the separation or the failure of interaction between them in the past, contributed to the deficiencies in the validation of the fashion product in the learning phase and in many cases, they present deficiencies in the transfer of knowledge to the labor market. The type of textile and clothing industry differs from country to country, in Portugal it is still essentially based on exporting companies, accounting for 10% of the national exports, where the profile of the professional required is mainly for product development, with skills in techniques, materials and market. In other countries, the profile is adapted for departments, from the creation and development of collections for fashion brands, product development, market, global and local sourcing, among others, result of the evolution that the sector had in the last 20 years, after the multifiber agreement and with the relocation of production to countries with cheaper labor. However, the textile and clothing sector, although belonging to the same chain differ from each other, capital intensive versus labor intensive. The objective of this investigation is to answer a main question: What competences, from a practical point of view, are necessary for the Portuguese garment exporting industry in graduate students specialized in fashion design and fashion technology? The objective is to know what practical skills the Portuguese clothing exporting industry needs, as well as the necessary relationship between the various techniques in the learning phase that contribute to the development of a value-added fashion product. To answer this question, a program of visits/ classes in companies was developed with students in the fashion design specialization, to sensitive them of the needs of the industry and was developed a program of collaboration between two curricular units: pattern making and garment manufacturing. A practical lesson plan for two curricular units was developed for two groups of 25 students. Were also interviewed 10 entrepreneurs from the sector, about their needs and deficiencies in terms of qualified staff in the area. It is concluded that, after contact with companies in the sector and in a classroom model in the company, students show changes in behavior regarding the commitment and acquisition of technical skills. The interconnection between the two curricular units also allowed students to validate the results of their practical work, in the image of industrial model. It is also concluded that the contribution of teachers with recent experience in the clothing industry is essential in the contribution of student’s acquisition of skills to the labor market of the Portuguese clothing industry.

Marta Bicho, Maria Madalena Pereira, Rui Miguel, Nuno Belino

Conference Proceedings

STVgoDigital Project: The contribution of industry and scientific and technological system for fashion ecosystem digitalization

Digitalization is the act of deploying digital technologies to transform available business models and generate new revenue and value-producing opportunities (Gartner 2018). Digitalization is also called Industry 4.0. Several projects have emerged to respond to the challenges of Industry 4.0 and that, in some way, can respond to questions and problems found in an era of sustainability in the TCI (textile and clothing industry) supply chain, namely new business models for value creation. The STVgoDigital project, with the leadership of the “Têxtil Manuel Gonçalves” company, developed in partnership between the Portuguese textile and clothing industry and organizations of the scientific and technological system, allowing the development of advanced technology and market solutions applied to the fashion ecosystem. Thus, the objective of this project is to develop a digital platform (B2B and B2C) that contributes to the digitalization of processes from design to production and consumer with a horizontal and vertical integration system and allows responding to the problems of the new generations of fashion designers. For its development, a multidisciplinary team was formed (engineers, designers, informatics, managers, among others) to formulate the digital platform and interconnection with micro-factories production for a specific business model in the textile and clothing industry. It is concluded that the STVgoDigital project can contribute to a global level in this new digital and sustainable era: create value in the Portuguese textile and clothing industry and include more significant participation of designers and artists in the sector’s value chains, both nationally and internationally.Keywords: Industry 4.0, Fashion Ecosystem, Portuguese Textile, and Clothing Industry

Maria Madalena Pereira, João Nuno Oliveira, João Oliveira, Rui Miguel, José Morgado, Manuel Pereira, Manuel Gonçalves, João Barata

Conference Proceedings

Design of tread patterns for use with novel composite outsole materials for slip-resistant footwear

The ultimate goal of this research is to prevent fall-related injuries for workers exposed to outdoor winter conditions through the development of slip-resistant footwear based on novel composite materials and optimization of tread pattern design to retain its properties over extended use. This research will answer the following research question: how do tread pattern design features (tread depth, shape, orientation, and surface area) effect the slip-resistance of footwear with outsoles made up of a combination of novel composite and conventional materials? The objective of this project is to identify the relationship between tread pattern and slip-resistance on icy surfaces for footwear based on novel composite materials.

Shaghayegh Bagheri, Kunal Gide, Tilak Dutta

Conference Proceedings

Improving the Apparel Virtual Size Fitting Prediction under Psychographic Characteristics and 3D Body Measurements Using Artificial Neural Network

Background3D virtual simulation prototyping software combined with computer-aided manufacturing systems are widely used and are becoming essential in the fashion industry in the earlier stages of the product development process for apparel design. These technologies streamline the garment product fitting procedures, as well as improve the supply chain environmentally, socially, and economically by eliminating large volumes of redundant samples. Buyers can easily evaluate virtual samples that are showcased with full rotation views and visual draping effects without relying on physical prototypes before confirming orders. The approved designs can be transferred to the production line immediately, which shortens the communication, development, and production lead time between suppliers and buyers. Issues of non-standardized selection on garment sizing, ease allowance, and size of 3D avatar for creating 3D garments have been addressed by many researchers. Understanding the relationship between body dimensions, ease allowance, and apparel sizes before adopting virtual garment simulation is fundamental for satisfying high customer demands in the apparel industry. However, designers find difficulties providing the appropriate garment fit for customers without fully understanding the motivation and emotions of customers’ fitting preferences in a virtual world.A statement of objective The main purpose of this study is to investigate apparel sizes for virtual fitting, particularly looking at garment ease with consideration to body dimensions and the psychographic characteristics of subjects.SignificanceThe quantitative relationship between the pattern measurements, psychological characteristics, and 3D body measurements contributes to improving virtual fit predictions for implementing mass customization in the apparel industry. This new approach and the proposed method of virtual garment fitting model prediction on garment sizes using an Artificial Neural Network (ANN) is significant in prediction accuracy. The results of this project provide sustainable value in providing an ideal communication tool between manufacturers, retailers, and consumers by offering “perfect fit” products to customers. The project will also achieve the concept of mass customization and customer orientation, and generate new size fitting data that could bring a new level of end-user satisfaction.MethodsThe study proposes to develop a virtual garment fitting prediction model using an ANN for improving virtual garment design in terms of its fitting and sizing. The project investigated apparel sizes for virtual fitting with consideration of body dimensions and psychographic characteristics of subjects on garment ease for improving the size prediction of 3D garments. We recruited 50 subjects between the ages 18-35 years old to conduct 3D body scans and a questionnaire survey for physical and psychological segmentation, as well as fitting preferences evaluation through co-design operations on virtual garment simulation using a commercial software called Optitex. Discussion of resultsThe ease preferences from subjects were significantly different from the preset values on the software. The results from the study demonstrate that ANN is effective in modeling the non-linear relationship between pattern measurements, psychological characteristics, and body measurements. The pattern parameters predicted by the ANN model were accurate. The squared correlation coefficient (R2) increased from 0.96 to 0.99 after considering different segmentations of psychographic characteristics. The ANN prediction model is proven to be an effective method for garment pattern drafting, which can achieve an individual fit and is useful for implementing the virtual fitting model.

Ah Pun Chan, Wai Ching Chu, Kwan Yu Lo, Kai Yuen Cheong

Conference Proceedings

Design as an enhancer of the circular economy in fashion

This article aims to address new territories of influence, whose theme of circular economy inspired the territory of design. Circular economy is a concept based on the operationalization of the reduction, reuse, recovery and recycling of products, materials and energy. The linear process that defined fashion's end of life gave way to new models and circular flows of reuse, where design has an important role to play. The emerging theories of circular design are based on the same principles, promoting a sustainable future and whose project methodology already addressed.We can see that these principles are portrayed in an initiatory way in the project methodologies disseminated in school manuals. Perhaps the little depth of the phases that make up the methodology make these “new” innovative approaches appear. In our view, circular design is a reinterpretation of the project method-ology. The design thinking is verified as a fundamental mental process of the methodology, whose lack of knowledge about the specific knowledge of this theme leads to the emergence of parallel lines or new approaches that divide and highlight certain moments of the methodology to the detriment of others.With this investigation it is our intention to clarify concepts and ways of acting. Demonstrate graphic models that show that circular design is already applied in the analysis of the project methodology, both in the macro structure and in the micro structure.We can say that design is verified by the usability of the products but assuming that there is a new applicability, the strategic. Thus, design must be more globally involved in the creation of new products, overcoming the death of objects in their functionality. We are considering a new sustainability territory that reinterprets planned obsolescence in fashion.

Catarina Carreto, Rui Carreto

Conference Proceedings

Interaction and Comfort for Children - Textiles and Composite Materials

The study presented in this paper, is part of a product design research about children's material surroundings and is based on the review of literature and case study. In an architectural scale approach, a ceramic tile project was developed and prototyped, aiming to provide wall covering solutions, which may stimulate the interaction of the child with his/her surroundings through customization and imagination, following also concerns on sustainability. Glazed earthenware tiles, being popular mineral origin materials, have been used for centuries in households. It seemed necessary to search for information on other natural origin material possibilities that may complete a modular system, namely specific textile materials of animal origin (wool based) and other vegetable source composite materials (cork based), from Portugal. It was possible to achieve a wider view of the advantages and disadvantages of each material, its implications on human interaction and on sustainability. It helped provide directions for a suitable choice of materials in this wall covering project, bearing in mind children's interaction and comfort, but also innovation and playfulness in their development.

Cristina Salvador

Conference Proceedings

New Territories of Sustainable Fashion Proposals for the Transition towards sustainability and circularity

The paper presents the results of a research carried out in the clothing, footwear and leather goods sectors referring to the Italian territory. The survey was carried out through the collection of data on the field, with questionnaires administered to companies in the area: structured analysis on the company profile and brand identity; focus on sustainability with reference to the measures adopted by the company; technological assessment; collection of new needs expressed by each company. The result of the on-field research suggests, on the one hand, theoretical reflections relating to new sustainable approaches for the fashion sector, and on the other, technological innovation to implement value and profit for each company according to a sustainable and circular economic model. In Italy the local manufacturing systems have had their fulcrum in the industrial districts, which present themselves as centres of relations between multiple stakeholders. Generally, the openness and inclusion of stakeholders and systemic organization are essential for the sustainable development of the sector.The cultural tradition and the organization of Made in Italy production, in parallel with the Portuguese textile production systems, seem better prepared for a real ecological transition (Ricchetti & Frisa, 2011). This research proposes a model that accompanies companies on a transition path towards sustainable production.The methodology investigated, which starts from the enhancement of operational tools, contributes to promoting the adoption of new production processes and therefore to a more conscious consumption.The results achieved by SMEs in recent years, in the areas of ecological and digital transition, promise interesting developments, formulating a starting point to be used as an organizational and productive support to definitively move towards the suggested model. The discussion proposes a series of recommendations that can contribute to adopting a change in the entrepreneurial system of SMEs, vice versa, where there are contradictions and persisting barriers, it will be necessary to consider concrete and unanimously shared measures.

Gianni Montagna, Maria Antonietta Sbordone, Alessandra Esposito, Ana Marques, Ilenia Amato, Rita Gaspar

Conference Proceedings

3D knitting for upholstery: guidelines to design at the interface of sustainable fashion and furniture.

Textile products, a synthesis of the complex relationship between physical and sensory characteristics, have always played a fundamental role in the culture of furniture design projects. Like many other production sectors, the furniture one in recent years has been called to meet the growing demand for conversion to sustainability both in terms of processes and raw materials, since most of the time disassembly is very difficult and the padding material is generally difficult to reuse, recycle, or recover when furniture pieces are dismissed. 3D knitting allows reducing the productive steps, consequently, i.e. reducing the supply chain. Moreover, it allows the development of local and on-demand production systems and, lends itself to the use of recycled materials. Finally, at the end of life of furniture pieces, the above-mentioned technology facilitates the recycling of yarns and drastically reduces the possibilities of exploitation of labor. In addition, the use of this process in furniture design has the potential to answer to the strong demand for circularity that the furniture sector is asking for. This research focuses on the relationship between innovative textile technological processes and furniture design (upholstered sofas and armchairs in particular). This study aims to investigate how the 3D knitting process, can contribute in terms of sustainable production in the furniture sector. The technological transfer has been studied either in literature and with direct dialogue with industrial 3D knitting experts. Through this research, it has been possible to demonstrate that the process is not limited to reducing production waste but also to bringing environmental, economic, and social benefits. In fact, 3D knitting allows companies to reduce the size of the product during transport, meeting the trend of flat packaging, allowing the replacement of polyurethane foams in upholstery with recycled and recyclable materials and ultimately leading to a different conception of the furniture product. 3D knitting brings the designer to conceive furniture in a completely new and different way, simple and easy to disassemble, factors that are fundamental principles of circularity design. To provide an output that was not only illustrative but also functional to the designer, in the second part of the research, some specific design guidelines for 3D knitted upholstery have been defined. The guidelines have been established through an overview of the basics of knitwear, the explanation of the machines and their operations, case studies and samples collection, and interactions with 3D knitting industries. Thanks to these guidelines it is possible to guide the designer in the early stages of the development of a 3D knitted product. A final case study on the guidelines application is also provided. This research has allowed to shed light on a process still little known in the world of product design, identifying the potential for the creation of circular products, especially in the furniture sector, and helping designers approach this technology.

Benedetta Cerulo, Flavia Papile, Martina Motta, Andrea Marinelli, Giovanni Maria Conti, Barbara Del Curto

Conference Proceedings

Biodyes: A new solution for textile dyeing technology

The Textile Industry is one of the most representative industries in the world's industrial structure and has always assumed an important role in the national economy. Globally, and according to a study by Grand View Research, this industry represented 961.5 billion dollars in 2019 (Grand View Research - Global textile market 2020-2027).However, this sector represents the second most polluting industry in the world, and the environmental impacts occur, above all, in terms of water consumption, soil erosion, CO2 emissions and the resulting residues.The textile industry is responsible for the production of 2.1 billion tons of waste, most of which are discarded into the water ecosystem, essentially during the dyeing processes. In fact, dyeing is one of the most polluting processes in the textile industry, representing a high source of pollution of water circuits and environmental ecosystem. According to the World Bank, textile dyeing industries are responsible for 20% of industrial water pollution.This reality acquires even greater proportion when analyzing the quantities of dyes produced. Every year, it is estimated that around 10,000 types of dyes and pigments, and 7x105 tons of synthetic dyes are produced in the market, for this sector. From this production, more than 200,000 tons of dyes are released into industrial effluents during the textile processing phases (dyeing and finishing).To reduce the environmental footprint caused by the textile industry, the replacement of synthetic dyes by others from natural compounds has been the subject of extensive research, through the development of new ways of coloring textile materials.One of the emerging research areas is related to the exploration of obtaining natural dyes, from microorganisms, called Biodyes.The research aims to develop a sustainable dyeing process, through the production of biodyes, from the metabolic study of the production of microorganisms.It is known the potential that exists in the generation of color and a wide spectrum of functionalities, from biotechnology, regarding the metabolic pathway of certain microorganisms, in the specific case from bacteria such as E. Coli. The main advantages of the innovation proposed in the investigation of this research work are compared to synthetic dyes/pigments, its very low environmental impact, in terms of consumption of material and energy resources, environmental pollution and non-toxicity of the resulting effluents. At the same time, the production of dyes from microorganisms, bacteria and/or fungi, has benefits compared to natural alternatives of plant origin due to its independence from seasonal limitations and climatic conditions, as well as the rapid growth of some substances and therefore with much higher biological yields and consequent industrial application.

Cristina Carvalho, Gianni Montagna, Carla Costa Pereira, Carlos Manuel Figueiredo

Conference Proceedings

Color Analysis and Application of Luo Fabric Based on Clustering Algorithm

Luo, a traditional Chinese silk fabric, is famous for its lightness and softness. Due to its difficulty in weaving and the lack of development in line with contemporary trends, it gradually disappeared from people's vision. Therefore, in order to clarify the color matching rules of traditional woven fabrics and complete the redesign of the intangible cultural heritage of woven fabrics, this paper introduces the K-means clustering algorithm to extract the main colors of the sorted images of woven fabrics and similar fabrics, and build a standard color card. The model with color network. Taking the design of Luo and silk products produced in Wuluo—ancient Wu land as a practical case, it is verified that Luo fabric standard color card and color network model can provide a theoretical basis for the redesign of Luo products, and provide inspiration and inspiration for Luo's color design. Decision-making suggestions to promote the inheritance and development of Wuluo intangible cultural heritage.

Ren Long, Wenyi Han, Xin Zeng, Yiming Wang, Mei Ming Xiong

Conference Proceedings

Flexible coverings: (Re)dressing bodies and facades. Analogies between the epidermis of our body and the epidermis of our buildings facades

Combining the need to (re)dress bodies and façades with the will to adorn, let's consider the wide possibilities that textiles and new materials offer, to point out more sustainable solutions, that can counteract thermal discomfort. Both clothing and buildings protect and shelter the body while providing a means to express the identity of the wearer.In this study, we explore our relationship between interior and exterior. Clothing and housing are presented as an extension of our skin. They allow us to improve the thermal comfort of the users and the dwellings. Fabric structures are used to cover bodies and to clad the structure of buildings, used in both with the same function of protection and thermoregulation. There are numerous constructive advantages in the use of textiles from the translucency of the material, light construction and quick assembly, significant energy savings, flexibility, and adaptability to the site. When there is damage to building infrastructure, caused for example by terrorism or earthquakes, there is often a need for prefabricated, transportable solutions. Textiles used in tent systems are still a referenced solution for emergency shelters due to their lightness, ease of transport and assembly by volunteers without technical training. This research locates textiles used in architecture from their initial use to the present day. We will present examples used by traditional cultures, but also contemporary and innovative constructions. Our study motivates a set of connections, between the User, Textiles, Architecture and Materials. We start with the most comprehensive and transversal connections, like the frequent association of skin to clothing and then clothes to our dwellings. In a second moment some more specific and specialized references, in which we will point out some textiles and coverings, which have incorporated characteristics of flexibility, adaptability and interaction.In this study we present some versatile, adaptable, and ecological structures, which reflect the environmental and social changes of our society. We conclude that the use of textiles in architecture, allows to improve the thermal comfort of the users, to express their identity and to respond to humanitarian needs.

Marlene Couceiro, Cristina Carvalho

Conference Proceedings

Clothing-as-a-service? – A research agenda towards a sustainable and socially accepted Circular Economy of Clothing

Circular Economy approaches are increasingly recognized as a solution also in the textile industry to foster a world-wide call to action in terms of sustainable production, sale, use, and recycling of materials and products. When supported by technical, economic, and political systems, such efforts help to integrate more efficient process-es and production lines as well as to maintain valuable materials and components for re-use and re-cycling, to target closed material cycles, develop or re-arrange production chains, and reframe consumption behaviors. In this paper we focus on clothing from a circular economy perspective. Textiles are the number two consumer goods market worldwide. Production, sale, use, and recycling of clothing must be better synchronized to increase sustainability. However, social factors and existing behaviors often affect these sustainable endeavors on different levels. Clothing is progressively regarded as a low-quality single-use-like object in a fast fashion world, discarded after only a few wears. Whilst it is also generally considered a personal item with individual attributions, not easily shared, or borrowed. Individual attributions of value and sensitivity, as well as technical barriers conflict with the requirements of longest possible use and subsequent reuse, and recycling. New concepts of ownership, sharing, pricing, and renting such as deposit trousers challenge the market and consumer sensibilities. In this article, we describe the opportunities and challenges of socially accepted circular economy approaches for clothing, conflicting technical, economic, and social forces that limit their viability, and outline strategies and an interdisciplinary research agenda to overcome these challenges.

Philipp Brauner, Luisa Vervier, Martina Ziefle, Melina Sachtleben, Stefan Schlichter, Thomas Gries

Conference Proceedings

Validation and Reliability of Sizestream 3D scanner using Regression modeling

3D scanning has evolved as one of the most advanced and accurate technology to measure humans and products. Quick and reliable results achieved by 3D scanning over manual measurements, make it the most preferred tool for measurement. 3D scanning has been extensively used in various national sizing surveys worldwide. The 3D scan results are compared to the manual measurements to establish the accuracy of the scanner. This research paper describes a novel and alternative approach to check the reliability and validity of the measures derived from 3D Body Scanner in comparison to measures provided by the manual measures.The 3-D Body scanning was done by Sizestream 3D Body Scanner - SS14. The manual body measurements were taken by experienced experts using an anthropometer, stadiometer, and certified flexible non-stretchable steel tape. In total 133 subjects (68 male and 65 female subjects) covering 102 body dimensions were taken manually and were used while comparing 3D scan measurements to establish the validity and reliability of the scanner. The procedure adopted for validation and reliability check for the 3D scanner was as prescribed in the ISO 20685(2005) and ISO 20685(2018). It was observed that the Sizestream - SS14 scanners used were highly consistent in measuring the subjects, though a systematic error was reported in the process failing some of the measurements in terms of accuracy levels (as per ISO 8559 and ISO 20685(2005)) achieved against manual measurements used as the gold standards. Subsequently, a novel approach based on regression modeling was applied to establish scanning accuracy.This research paper describes the validation and reliability procedure as per ISO protocols. It also discusses the regression-based statistical procedure adopted to confirm the desired measurement accuracy of the scanners within the permissible error limits of ISO 20685and ISO 8559.

Manoj Tiwari, Noopur Anand

Conference Proceedings

Offloading performance of insole materials during walking for diabetic patients

Repetitive high pressure on the plantar of the foot along with loss of protective sensation is one of the key factors that result in diabetic foot ulceration. Orthopedic insoles have been proven to significantly reduce the peak plantar pressure. It is anticipated that the offloading performance of insoles is mainly influenced by the properties of insole materials. Therefore, the objective of this study is to compare the immediate offloading performance of 3D insoles designed with 4 different types of insole materials during walking. The PORON® Medical 4708 insole has the best offloading performance for each foot region compared to the other insole materials. Compared to the barefoot condition, the peak pressure with the use of the PORON® Medical 4708 insole is reduced by 37% on the entire plantar surface, 40% at the medial rearfoot, 42% at the lateral rearfoot, 12% at the lateral midfoot, 19% at the 1st metatarsal head (MTH), 59% at the 2nd - 4th MTHs, 46% in the 5th MTH, 4% at the hallux, and 7% at the other toes. Softer insole materials have better offloading performance compared to the harder materials during walking.

Liying Zhang, Kit Lun Yick, Joanne Yip, Sun Pui Ng

Conference Proceedings

The effect of anti-itch fiber on the quality of sleeping

For humans, sleeping has a role of restoring mind and body, and is an important function for recovery from fatigue. In recent years, more focus has been put on the quality of sleep rather than the quantity of sleep, and it has been found that the bedding and sleeping garments could disturb the quality of sleep.　There are many factors disturbing sleep, and itching during sleep deteriorates the quality of sleeping. Patients with atopic dermatitis are particularly suffering from poor sleep due to itching. Based on the results of our research so far, we have found that weak-acidic polyester, which possesses weak-acidic groups, suppresses itching due to atopic dermatitis. In this study, we adapt weak-acidic polyester to sleeping garments which contact directly with skin and aim to investigate whether the quality of sleeping is improved by suppressing itchiness during sleep. The sleeping garments were prepared with the weak-acidic polyester and untreated polyester fabrics. We asked 7 females with atopic dermatitis in their twenties and 7 healthy females in their twenties as subjects to wear the prepared sleeping garments at home. The quality of sleep was assessed by an electroencephalograph and the Athens insomnia scale, and the degree of itching was scored on a scale of 100 according to the visual analog scale (VAS). Sleep is specified by REM sleep and non-REM sleep according to brain activity at sleep. In REM sleep, the brain is still actively working and memory is organized and established. In non-REM sleep, the cerebrum is considered to be resting and is important for recovery from fatigue of the brain and body. Good sleep is determined by the amount of non-rem sleep. The wear tests confirmed that the weak-acidic polyester scored a higher rate of non-REM sleep than that of the untreated polyester in summer season. All the subjects wearing the weak-acidic polyester had a lower degree of itchiness and a higher proportion of non-REM sleep, confirming the effect of weak-acidic polyester.

Chiyomi Mizutani, Ryoji Hirota, Kanji Kajiwara

Conference Proceedings

Making Art Through Textile

Art is an important point in our life. Show our culture, our ideas, our knowledge, our creativity and our sensibility. Through art we can Know what the people think in the time of history. Art is the manifestation of beliefs, showing what people demonstrating critical capacity of the history that we are living or lived in some time. For doing art artists using different kind of material. Someone paints, others do sculptures, or even many materials are possible to use together for manifestation art and opinions. Here we will talk about textile material. The many facets of the fabric, how it can be transformed in art with creativity.We choose to talk about the work that Daisy May Collingridge do to transform simple textile in real work of art. How she manifests her opinion through art using textile like a base for after, transform into squishier. Sometimes criticized about the impact caused in the public, her brilliant idea of transforming fabric in sculpture show us her personality.

Isabel Bieger

Conference Proceedings

Thermal comfort of buildings and their occupants - Dialogue between Nature, Textiles and Architecture

Our research has the general objective of combating thermal discomfort and improving the interaction between the user and the space, through the application of new materials. Textiles have been used in architecture since mankind began to build. One of the advantages of their use is that they improve thermal comfort without increasing energy consumption. Our daily life imposes on us a fast pace, and textiles try to keep up with this movement. However, the floors and coverings of the spaces do not reflect this speed. We estimate a benefit referring to an improvement in terms of user's comfort, if our building could adapt to the situations to which it is subjected, reversibly changing according to the circumstances to which it is exposed. We intend to observe Nature, with the aim of presenting strategies, which can contribute to finding alternative solutions, which accompany these changes, especially meteorological ones.The fur, feathers and scales, the body wrapping of animals, function similarly to the skin of humans, and have different functions (protection, communication, sensation, thermoregulation). Analysis of their protective and regulatory functions provide a starting point, for experiments in textiles and buildings. In this research we will focus on animal cooling and heating techniques, to try to find solutions, based on fauna and flora observation, to formulate possible textile and architectural applications. We will also observe some climatic zones with exaggerated characteristics, to understand how the human being has adapted to these places.It is by no means intended to exhaust the subject, however we will indicate some behavioral strategies and anatomical features that help animals regulate their body temperature. Whenever possible trying to correlate with already existing examples in textiles and Architecture. This article analyzes the possibilities of integrating some animal characteristics, in textiles and coatings with the objective of improving its thermal performance. We believe that by changing the color or applying new materials incorporated into the structures of our clothing or the coatings of our buildings, we can achieve our purpose: to improve thermal comfort. The use of darker shades, allow to absorb more solar radiation and heat the human body or the walls of houses. While the use of lighter shades, contribute to a greater reflection of sunlight, which allows to avoid the heating of the surfaces, favoring the reduction of temperature. We intend with this study to understand the dynamics of Nature, to understand how it solves its problems, to understand its general process of efficiency, to observe its diversity and complexity, with the objective of taking advantage of this inexhaustible source of inspiration for Design, for Textiles, for Architecture. It seems possible to improve the thermal comfort of buildings and their occupants through the production and application of responsive materials.

Marlene Couceiro, Cristina Carvalho

Conference Proceedings

Assessment of the Mechanical Behaviour of the Maritime Signaling Systems Based on Textiles Using Descriptive Statistics

The maritime signaling systems with textile components are light, flexible and efficient solutions [1, 4] and for their digital construction the researches were focused both on the prediction of the DB medium values and of those of the technical and functional characteristics. The designed and developed testing programme generated data on the system, by reaching the critical parameters; effectiveness; responsiveness; compatibility by evaluating the system in real interoperability conditions. Evaluation was a continuous, intensive process that involved: data analysis; defining the decisive parameters according to the operational requirements; establishing the degree of fulfillment of the technical performances; issuing hypotheses and conclusions regarding the progress registered in the technique and costs. It was demonstrated that the analised outliers, represented by the mechanical characteristics of the composite materials, component of the signaling system (braking resistance, tear resistance, braking elongation) and their joints (material-material and material – grain-gross band) do not have a negative impact on the textile structure, because they have values higher than the average for each set, so they will not influence the behavior and the functionality of the system in ground or open sea experimentation conditions.

Carmen Mihai, Alexandra Gabriela Ene, Mihaela Jomir

Conference Proceedings

Lighting applied to textile industries to increase the welfare of personnel and business productivity

Lighting engineering, the science in charge of determining the necessary lev-els of illumination in the spaces destined to the development of daily activi-ties, considers that in industry, optimal levels of illumination allow activities to develop in an adequate environment, in addition to increasing the well-being of the employees and, consequently, increasing the productivity of the companies; Several studies have been conducted worldwide related to the analysis of lighting in different work activities, showing that it is an aspect to be improved in workplaces, it has also been identified that the lack of light-ing has a substantial impact on the psychophysiological processes of vision, so the objective of this study is to develop a systematic proposal to identify the level of lighting in industries engaged in garment manufacturing and pro-pose a scheme to ensure adequate levels of lighting, for this, the procedures provided in the Mexican Official Standard are applied: NOM-025-STPS-2008, for the luminotechnical study and the results are compared with the Spanish Standard: UNE-EN 12464-1:2022, identifying a 50 52% of non-compliance with the expected standard; from the diagnosis a lighting pro-posal is developed using the software DIALux evo 8. 2 software for design and simulation. From the expected results, it is estimated that with the im-plementation of the proposal, 100% compliance with the required lighting standards will be achieved, energy productivity will be increased by 462% in the application area and, according to other research, the labor welfare of employees will be improved by 40% thanks to adequate levels of brightness in their workstations, as well as the reduction of visual discomfort.

Hernan Espejo, Lloyd Morris, Carlos Cachimuel, Juan Segura

Conference Proceedings

Assistive relief tool for special psychological symptom groups during pandemic - pressure clothing design based on virtual contact principles

During the COV-19 pandemic, some special populations - groups of early childhood and people with autism, among others - faced more profound challenges than the common people. The lack of real physical contact such as embracing greatly affected the effectiveness of development, psychiatric treatment and other processes for these populations. This study aims to develop clothing with appropriate contact pressure based on the contact comfort principle of psychology, provide a type of pressure clothing that can relieve the wearer’s tension by simulating hugging, alleviating the lack of physical contact for early childhood education and special education groups during the pandemic. First, the elementary requirements of clothing design are attained using a questionnaire survey and test method. The analysis revealed that clothing should fulfil the four requirements of pressure comfort, fabric softness, wearing and taking off comfort, and visual beauty. Second, we realized the performance requirements in the fabric and accessories, style design, structure design, and functional design. Finally, the product experience is proposed through a fitting, and the reasonable opinions were fed back to the product design to enhance the functionality of clothing. The research shows that clothing can simulate hugging and can ease the loneliness of the wearer. This study can be used as a good tool to assist during the pandemic for early childhood education and special psychological symptom groups, as well as a broader group of people living alone at home, to play an adjunctive treatment and loneliness relief functions.

Yunjuan Liu

Conference Proceedings